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Scar stock attachment is polymer for a reason. I like keeping my SCARs as close to stock as possible, whereas I build and modify my ARs. the mototech buffers aren't near as good as they are made out to be. There aren't that many good options for the SCAR unless you do modifications (don't modify the lower receiver BTW), but I use the Tango Down BG17 which fits my hand fine. I like the standard charging handle on the SCAR, but the grip sucks. So I have a CQB SCAR 17 and a Mid-range 17. Most of the time I leave it off the rifle.
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I'm not a big magnifier fan, but I had this one before I bought the rifle. The other 17 got an Aimpoint T-1 with an Aimpoint magnifier in a LaRue mount. This mount was made for the rifle so that is what I recommend. SO I went with an American Defense Delta mount. I started with a LaRue Mount, but couldn't get it to hold onto the scope so the reticle kept rotating. On one 17 I run a NF 2.5-10x which is an OK scope, but it is ROBUST. Scopes and mounts are a little tricky from my point of view. Tired of your friends making from of your expensive rifle with an uggs boot then convert that stock to a nicer ACR stock. I think most who have looked into it would agree the Geissele SUPER SCAR trigger is the way to go, and it uses the more robust FN SCAR hammer spring. I have kinetic development group stock adapter for a scar. (SCAR Optimized Buttstock Assembly) provides more cheek rest and length of pull adjustment for shooters who want to customize their stock for different. With inspiration from the FN Mk20 buttstock for their S.O.B.A. Timney and Geissele have triggers available for the SCAR. Stryker Enterprises is a manufacturer of accessories for the FN Herstal SCAR platform, all made in the USA. What are you running for scopes and mounts? What are the aftermarket trigger options for teh SCAR and is one better than the other? NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE! Sorry Geissele, just saved 1000 155g palma bullets worth of cash. I then wiped down and lubricated with synthetic grease and reassembled.
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I hit the trigger until the surface was free of that ridge and then polished both surfaces until mirror smooth. The surface on the trigger is the culprit as you can see a ridge that runs horizontally and it is there that the sear snags during release. I cleaned the surfaces with alcohol to get down to bare metal and hooked up a small buffing wheel to my Dremel. Note, be sure to not let the hammer slam forward into the polymer as cracking may happen. You can see these two surface work when dry firing before disassembly. Remove all the pins and near the bottom of the group you will see two machined surfaces, it is the lower surfaces that make up the sear and hammer. If you ever get confused as to which side the pins come out just take a look at all the pins, the ones on the left hand side have heads. Remove the small screw from the right side selector switch and slide out the left hand side. This trigger group is incredibly easy to work on. Not wanting to throw $300+ at a trigger and absolutely sick of the 5 stage trigger I went to town this morning.